Above: Granulated maple sugar. Photo via the New York State Maple Producers Association.
Background
Christmas is almost here, and for many is a time to give to others. What better way to connect to our nearby woodlands than to give to others its sweetest possession: maple (granulated) sugar. Today, maple syrup is more widely available, but in the past, maple sugar was more common.
Native Americans did not have access to glass technology and therefore were unable to store the sweetness of the maple tree in a syrupy consistency. If the syrup was not consumed right away, they would need to continue boiling the syrup inside hollowed out logs. Hot rocks from a nearby fire-pit were used to keep a boil. When they were satisfied that the syrup had boiled long enough, it was then poured into molds or boxes using paper birch bark. This “cake” sugar could be stored for a long period of time and taken deep into the woods where hungry hunters could snack on something sweet. Maple sugar, along with pemmican – dried meat and fruit – was the precursor to today’s GORP (Good Ole Raisins & Peanuts). Mary Poppins once said, “A spoonful of sugar makes the medicine go down,” and more than likely it helped the natives too. Many of the medicinal plants and their concoctions too bitter to ingest were probably mixed with sugar to enhance swallowing. However, some claim that the Natives used maple sugar to add spice to many edibles; similar to the way we use salt today. I use a quart of syrup a week doing the same thing.
In the early 19th century, maple sugar dominated the industry; its storage capabilities exceeded other forms. However, its dominance would soon be challenged by the turn of that century. In 1858, George Landis Mason patented his Mason jar. Advances in metal – such as tin – also made for better storage which furthered the ability of sugarmakers to make (and store) maple syrup. In addition, maple sugar had more competition from cane sugar by the late 19th century; perhaps the production of maple syrup served as one way producers could differentiate their product from cane sugar’s texture. After all, one does not spread cane sugar on their pancakes or waffles. Greater access to storage technology and perhaps a new market made the extra effort of making maple sugar less profitable and therefore its unfamiliarity today.
Maple sugar requires more work to make than maple syrup. Maple syrup is “syrup” when it reaches a sugar content of 67%. In order for sugar to be made, 33% more water must be boiled away; but don’t worry it’s not too difficult. I like to make a quart at a time. A quart of maple syrup will make a hair more than a quart of maple sugar. “How’s that possible,” you might wonder. “Didn’t you take 33% more water out of the syrup leaving for less volume?” Yes, but the additional air space between the granules makes up the difference. There is always a few larger granules that did not break down, but those are for the sugarmaker to snack on.
Let’s Make Some Sugar
First, take a quart of maple syrup and pour into a 2.5 quart or larger saucepan. Place the heat on HIGH. Then, take a stick of butter, and rim the inside at the top of the saucepan; one go-around should be adequate. When the syrup begins to boil up, this will knock it down and stabilize it for further boiling. However, do not ever walk away from the syrup while it is boiling; it will bite you back by making a mess all over your stove. Instead, be prepared to take it off the heat as it meets the butter and stabilizes.
Next, you will need a candy thermometer to read its temperature. When the syrup reaches approximately 255°F, take it off the stove and pour syrup onto a roasting pan (with walls). A larger pan is better, since the syrup must be cooled quickly. Stir the syrup using a wooden spoon. The syrup will begin to turn a lighter color. After approximately 10 minutes, the syrup will begin to harden up, bind, and then crack into granules. Keep stirring or churning until desired texture is met. When it has cooled, it can be stored in any sealed container. No refrigeration required either. That’s it!
Maple (granulated) sugar is worth making since it lends itself well to cooking. Onions, mushrooms, meat, and seafood can be easily caramelized. It also seems to dilute better in tea or coffee, while giving good texture to oatmeal, other hot cereals, or even fruit. Give it a try. They make pretty sweet Christmas presents that are truly from the forest. www.catskillforest.org
MAPLE SUGAR RECIPE